From: John De Armond
Subject: Re: Reboring EU2000i was: bypassing low oil warning EU2000i
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:19:11 -0400
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 07:28:14 -0800, "Ulysses" <email@example.com/> wrote:
>There goes that Infinately Indexed Memory Bank brain of yours again! ;-)
<grinz> My first profession, and the one where my heart still lies, was as a
motorcycle race mechanic. Our shop started the careers of Ike Smith and Dale
Singleton, among others. Dale went on to win several championships before getting
killed in an airplane crash. One of the biggest mistakes of my life was turning down
an offer to join Suzuki on their formula team. Anyway...
>Yes, that was my first question (way back when). I'm not even sure if the
>cylinder CAN be rebored. So far I can't seem to find anyone in the nearest
>town who can even turn brake drums. So far none of my attempts at finding a
>good use for the eu2000 elements have been an overwhelming success. It
>worked pretty well belt-driven with no eco-throttle but then it was having
>some problems when I attached the servo carburator. Part of the problem may
>have been the carburator but something else came up and it was taken apart.
What was the problem with the eco-throttle? Probably something that could be worked
>The PMA almost works when rewired from Star to Delta as a source for my
>OutBack MX60 charge controller but the voltage is a little to high so the
>engine speed has to be turned down and then it loses current output. Now
>I'm studying about high current voltage regulators. With a 4 HP engine it
>would bog down too much so now I'm about to try it on a 10 HP engine.
Instead of all that, why don't you rewind the stator to the voltage you want? In
this case it will be trivially easy since all you need to do is remove some turns
from each pole. I'd approach it as a cut'n'try operation. Concentrate on only one
pole. Remove some turns and see what voltage you get. Based on that calculate how
many turns to remove from each pole.
This will proportionally reduce the total power available but that doesn't seem to be
an issue in your case. If it is, simply count the turns as you remove them all and
rewind with larger wire. There are filling tables on the net that will show you what
gauge to use to completely fill the stator spaces.
The best engine efficiency generally occurs at the torque peak so that's where you'd
want to run the engine to use the least fuel. An industrial engine has a broad flat
torque peak so you have some speed latitude to play with.
>wind generator it almost worked--it would light up a 12 volt tail light bulb
>to about half brightness in 20 MPH wind. The only thing preventing me from
>experimenting more with the wind generator is that it will have to be
>visible from the road and I sure as hell don't want Code Enforcement back
You have to deal with code nazis? Arrrrghhhhh!!!! Of course, what you could do is
put up an amateur radio tower and just happen to hang a wind turbine off the side.
Ham towers are more or less FCC protected against code nazis so that's the way you
could get something in the air.
>A little OT but it has been established that we both make coffee ice cream.
>My coffee ice cream is the best ice cream I've ever had but, since you seem
>to know so much more about virtually everything than I do I suspect your
>coffee ice cream is better than mine. Care to tell me how you make it?
I started out making coffee in a French press using boiling milk instead of water.
Superb taste but a lot of work. I experimented around and discovered that I could
heat the milk for the recipe, add instant coffee (I use Folgers but I don't think it
matters that much) and make the ice cream from that.
I have one of those Cuisanart refrigerated table-top ice cream freezers that makes
about a half gallon. My recipe is this:
1 cup half and half or heavy whipping cream
1 cup whole milk
1 cup Splenda (I'm diabetic) or sugar
1 TBL instant coffee
1 ea large or jumbo egg
1 TBL vanilla extract
1 pinch salt
If you want to increase the butter fat (improves mouth feel), you can add a little
butter, maybe a tsp. Heavy whipping cream usually has enough butter fat but half and
half usually doesn't.
Mix the milk and half and half and heat to about 180 deg., just below the skinning
point. If you're phobic about raw eggs, mix it in while beating strongly to prevent
clumping. I'm not, so I put the egg in after the mix cools. Add the instant coffee
and cool. I sit the pan in the sink and run cold water around it. Add the egg and
the other ingredients.
This is the most important part for creamy smooth ice cream. Whip strongly (I use a
Bamix stick mixer but a hand mixer or milkshake mixer works equally well) until
there is 10-15% overrun. That is, the volume of the mix increases by that much.
"Overrun" is the industry term for incorporating air into the mix. It makes the ice
cream creamy both by making it lighter and by making it harder for large ice crystals
to form around the little bubbles.
The colder the mix while whipping, the better. I put the mix in the ice cream
freezer and turn on the compressor. When the slightest crust of ice starts forming
around the outside, I turn the compressor off and whip. Then the agitator goes in
and the compressor is turned back on.
The mixing must be extremely vigorous. If it isn't, the effect will be to churn the
cream and large hunks of butter will result. If I didn't have the Bamix, I'd use my
old Hamilton Beach milkshake mixer.
I've tried my best but I can't taste any difference between brewing coffee using milk
and using instant coffee. If you try the French press route, either don't heat the
milk to the point where it skins or else completely remove the skin. If you don't,
the skin will glue coffee grounds to the press's screen and it won't work. learned
that one the hard way.
I used to offer free dessert nights in my restaurant. Coffee ice cream was by far
the favorite. I used to make that stuff in 5 gallon batches. Using instant coffee
removed a LOT of work from the effort.